Supplì & demand – Rome’s favourite street food

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Bite into the crisp breadcrumb coating to find a ball of savoury rice, rich with a sauce of plum tomatoes and crumbled oregano, and inside that, a cube of molten mozzarella cheese. This little croquette is the taste of Rome: the flavour of sunshine, the buzz of scooters, the klaxons blaring after a football match. This is supplì al telefono.

Supplì is from the French word for ‘surprise.’ These snacks first became popular in the 1920s when the fritters were originally filled with mystery ingredients—commonly chicken giblets. Over the decades the dish evolved, and by the ’50s, mozzarella became the normalised staple ingredient, at which point supplì earned its new name. Break one in half and see the melted cheese ‘wire’ connecting the two ends of the ‘telephone.’

Sold from food vans and hole-in-the-wall fast food joints, supplì has been a staple of the local diet ever since. In recent years a wave of inventive new ‘street chefs,’ using a wider range of flavours, have breathed new life into the old favourite. Here’s where to find the top supplì near Hotel Indigo Rome:

Supplizio (Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143) Arcangelo Dandini and Lorenzo D’Ettore’s street food paradise is in the heart of the historic centre of the city. You can sit at the bar or on one of the old leather sofas. Dandini loved supplì as a boy, and his enthusiasm shines through in his traditional croquettes served bianco (without tomato sauce) or rosso (with it).

#supplì come non ci fosse un domani! #Westinroma #personalfoodshopper

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Pizzarium (Via della Meloria 43) Gabrielle Bonci is internationally famous for his sourdough pizzas, but he’s also a master of new-style gourmet supplì. His tiny pizzeria near the Vatican has not changed a bit since its opening in 2003. Bonci’s iterations are reinvented daily with home-made spaghetonni in place of rice or taleggio instead of mozzarella. The range of local craft beers in the fridge by the door are the perfect accompaniment.

・ #Tトラベルのイタリア旅 ・ バチカン美術館からメトロで1駅の、Ciproから徒歩5分程にある立ち食いピッツァ。 #Pizzarium (#ピッツァリウム ) ・ パリッとしたピザ生地の外側に対してソフトな中身のピッツァは ピザ特有の食後にお腹がもたれる感じがなく、 これが『ピッツァリウム』の売りと言われています。 ・ 石臼でひかれた有機小麦を使い、自然培養からなる天然酵母でじっくりと発酵させてピザ生地をつくる。さらにその80%は水分というのがふわっと軽いピザ生地の理由。 ・ トッピングは旬の素材しか使わないため、季節ごとにメニューは変わります。 もちろん、どれも産地直送のもの。 扱うビールも国内外の地ビールを中心にその種類は50種弱。 切売りピザ店の数は多くても、これほどこだわっている店は『ピッツァリウム』のみ。 イートインスペースが狭いのは残念だが、それを補うには十分過ぎるほどのエレガントな切売りピザ。ローマで試すべきファストフードのひとつです。 ・ ここでしかできない体験の旅を。 ・ 代官山T-SITE内にある旅行コーナーや、 マガジンストリートだけではなく 旅に関する様々な本やDVDが並んでいます。 あなたの人生を変える旅のストーリーに出会うかも。 ・ この写真は @iamsaracogliandro さんにお借りしました。 ・ #BOUNDARY#Tトラベル#旅#旅行#travel#trip#daikanyama#代官山蔦屋#自分探し#旅好き#一人旅#観光 #italy #gabrielebonci #pizzarium #roma #nofilter #papillegustativeinfesta #fujifilm #xt10 #fujixt10 #feelingoodlivinbetter

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RosticceRi (Corso Rinascimento 83) Street chef Massimo Riccioli comes from an illustrious Roman cooking line: his father is chef-patron of an upmarket oyster bar in the city. His deli is just around the corner from the Piazza Navona and the Hotel Indigo Rome – St. George. His supplì are fried in extra virgin olive oil, which boils at a higher temperature than ordinary oil, making them a little bit crisper.

Trapizzino Roma (Via Giovanni Branca 88) Owner and chef Stefano Callegari (a.k.a. ‘The Mayor’) is famed for his invention of trapizzino, a triangular pizza pocket filled with stews and sauces, but he’s also a dab hand with supplì. Try the croquettes filled with broccoli and spicy sausage, roast pork and Frascati, or alla gricia with sharp pecorino cheese and tiny cubes of cured pork cheek. His branch in Testaccio used to be called 00100 Pizza, and locals still refer to it by that name.




La Gatta Mangiona (Via F. Ozanam 30-32) The calm, beautifully preserved Monteverde Nuovo neighbourhood is famous for the quality of its restaurants. La Gatta Mangiona is owned by Giancarlo Casa who styles himself a ‘pizza engineer’. He’s also a great ‘supplì mechanic,’ and this is a fine place to try gourmet croquettes filled with sausage, peas, mushroom, and tomato; gorgonzola and creamy herring; or delicate saffron and fresh asparagus.

La Casa del Suppli (Via San Francesco a Ripa 137) This old school hole-in-the-wall friggitoria (fried food shop), also called Sisinis (after the owners Alvaro and Venanzio Sisini) and sometimes I Suppli, fired up its fryers for the first time in the leafy Trastevere neighbourhood back in 1979. The Sisinis have been delivering some of the best quality supplì in the city ever since. They describe their simple, classic supplì as “a perfect symphony of taste, smell, and texture,” and it’s hard to disagree. There’s a second location at the Piazza dei Re di Roma, but opt for the original.

If you’re a street food fanatic, you need to check out London’s railway arches.

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